A Svan table in Ushguli
Ushguli lies at about two thousand one hundred metres below Shkhara and consists of four villages; Upper Svaneti with its family towers is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. The café-restaurant Murkvam works in Chvibiani, one of those villages, and the name speaks for itself: murkvam is the Svan word for a tower.
The cooking is Svan and domestic: kubdari with chopped meat, Svan salt, local cheese. Open every day from nine in the morning to eleven at night, telephone +995 595 06 07 10. Reviews single out the kubdari above all.