Kubdari from the oven at the edge of Mestia
Mestia is the main town of Upper Svaneti: from here roads run to Ushguli and trails to the Chalaadi glacier, and here stand the Svaneti museum and a tower in every yard. Lushnu Qor, with its garden and beer terrace, sits on the eastern edge, away from the bustle of the centre. The name is Svan: lushnu means Svan, as in lushnu nin, the language itself.
People order what they come for: kubdari with chopped meat baked in the oven, millet khachapuri, Svan salt. Reviews agree on the kubdari and disagree about the service, which can be uneven, but the portions are generous.